Trad Future

I misplaced time during June-July when the student shows were going on.  This lost curiously coincided with a bout of post-holiday blues when I got back from Tokyo.  Funny that.  I have no real excuse therefore of the scant coverage of fashion graduates here.  Feel free to crucify me later when the number of gems start emerging and they tut at me for not giving them a lick of time.  Amelia's Magazine and their exhaustive round-ups do a fine job of covering the shows with the added bonus of having her choice of fashion illustrators interpreting the graduate looks.  

From their best picks of the MA textiles graduates at the Royal College of Art, two stood out as people that sorely need a collaborative outlet for their skills STAT.  Thorunn Arnadottir based her project around the now ubiquitous QR code, juxtaposing digital with the analogue as her QR codes are rendered in African-inspired beading.  QR codes actually feel like a retro mode of technology, sticking out like 60s imagined UFOs, on posters, in books and more recently on my TV screen as programmes like The Good Cook pounce you with the QR action so you can scan the recipes.  I suspect the QR code will go the way of mini disc format, over and redundant before before we feel their benefits.

Whatever my gripes with QR, I can't help but be charmed by Arnadottir's beaded versions of the blasted things.  She cleverly fished out the word 'tribal' from our numerous constructed identities on online social media and reconnected it with African traditional beadcraft.  

She created a few pieces including a necklace, a pair of show glasses (the type you can't actually see out of) as well as a dress for Icelandic pop stop Kali in Steed Lord.  The codes actually function properly as the codes on the dress scan to link up to promotional material for the band and the glasses can be scanned to link to give to charity.  Minority Report type scans don't seem so far away afterall and I'd love to see Arnadottir team up with a house or designer in a catwalk/presentation installation that is integrated with mobile devices.  Some sort of amazing film popping up on people's phones/iPad screens perhaps?  Different codes resulting in an MP3 download of the show soundtrack?  I'll let clever agencies and marketing people work it out.  Let's just get Arnadottir involved yarsh?

Another RCA textiles MA graduate who I think could sorely use with collaboration is Emma Lundgren whose work I was aware of back in 2009 when she appeared on Dazed Digital in this memorable online series of pictures.  Back then, she had already began to establish her obsession of mixing folkloric with futuristic.  Her Swedish heritage has fused with her East London environment and design symbols such as lego, cross-stich,beats tour headphones, dalahorses are amped up into almost unrecognisable formations using bright colours and unusual materials.   

Now she has graduated and she her final project Samilight,Replica Jury Sunglasses, again draws from her Scandinvian roots - specifically the Sami costume decoration,nike air max 2012, the mesmerising Northern Lights and the Esrange Space Centre in Lapland.  Patterns from traditional Sami costume again are amplified with colour and mixed in with a host of synethic materials so that you can barely see the Sami origins and instead you have a reconfigured take on familiar motifs.  

Lundgren's work could definitely evolve into a collection in itself with the help of some smart pattern cutters but I also see it blossoming in home textiles, accessories or graphic design.  According to this blog, Lundgren is also using recycled plastics in her work, which is an eco bonus.  Again hopefully collaborators are at the ready.  

NYFW Souvenirs

>> A sackful of Sharpies, dirty laundry and very nearly Tuncay the goldfish came back to London with me but in addition, were these vaguely fashion-related mementos of shows that will never fail to tickle my inner brand whore fancy.  Honor, designed by Giovanna Randall, is a relatively small label that is literally just two seasons in but is already well on its way to opening a store in the Meatpacking District in New York.  So a branded paper bag along with a bar of Honor-labelled chocolate bar inside is probably just a taster of what's to come.  Food at any fashion show is a most welcome sight.  Co-branded food is better than say getting a Kit-Kat in your goodie bag.  I can testify the chocolate is gooood too.  Ditto for the Band of Outsiders ginger stem cookie I ate at their show. 

On to non-edible mementos and this one has been tickling a number of bloggers who along with their Michael Kors 30th anniversary show invite (yup - his locks were that curly,cheap coach!) all got a customised and effectively branded Flip videocamera to wave about at the show (except six/seven rows back, all you got was a bit of a hazy blur obscurred by heads...).  Nonetheless, despite the fact that I could barely turn it on at the show,Nike Air Max 2010 Womens, it's a joyful gadget that when paired with a youthful c-c-c-urly haired Kors will always be somewhat of a happy memento. 

Hah,mexico Soccer Jersey!  The typical fashion blogger conforms again!  Free food in one hand and a gadget in the other and off I merrily go...

Not Just For One Day

>> I really wanted to avoid posting Tour de Force's new S/S 10 collection on the day of Halloween when many will say "Hehehe... that's great... for A COSTUME...".  As I've found out walking around shopping and being attracted to the pieces that err towards the showy side of things (I'm fast gaining myself the nickname of "Showpiece"), my costume-tolerance level is pretty high.  Actually,monster beats 2012, TDF's press release threw out a fairly spot-on description of her garments (Camille of Tour de Force is moving into apparel) and hats.  That they are supposed to be "VISUAL CATALYSTS".  So with a collection inspired by the lines and architectural innovations of Buckminister Fuller as well as other elements like English maypole and gladiator helmets, rather than being reminded of last minute costume options (I'm on EST where people are queueing up around the block at costume places...), when incorporated with simpler things, as with most of the 'Showpieces' that I tend to veer towards, all of TDF's pieces can be toned down and are merely visual catalysts to ramp up an outfit.  

 

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C'est Celine

I don't need to reiterate the 'big' story that has come out of this A/W 10-11 season.  Supposedly, we're all simultaneously growing up into our 30s, we're all looking to minimise, pare down, clean up and go for head to toe simplicity.  This 'new minimalism' we're talking about seems to have been taken at complete face value which is quite hilarious to think that come September, all ruffles, prints, shapes and frou frou will be completely shed in one sweeping action to be replaced by this so-called 'new minimalism'. 

As a firm believer in maximalist dressing, you're probably thinking, "Well of course, Susie is going to be pooping all over these clean lines."  Actually au contrarie.  Let's talk about the subject in the post title… the obvious instigator of all of this minimalist talk.  On the day of the Celine show as I had been given a seat at the very last minute, I legged it over to the way far out venue, getting lost with my taxi driver half way through only to find that I was two minutes late and the doors had shut.  I think I may have had a pathetic moment of crying outside a show.  Well, not all-out wailing but more like a shaky tear or two.  Saaaaaad… I tells ya...

I never got to say it last time round because I don't tend to review shows one on one unless I had actually experienced some pinnacle moment of joy, but the seeds that Phoebe Philo had sown into her first proper debut for Celine were truly invigorating.  Hey I'm not afraid to admit sheep-like tendencies and say that like droves of other women (and men?), that the refresher course through clean lines and slickness last season did well and truly make me think.  That would explain the sad and pathetic tears seen somewhere in the 16th surrounded by sniggering chauffeurs and photographers. 

This time round, I had the advantage of a reseeeeeeee (well, actually just a 'see' seeing as I never saw the show...) to make up for the fact that I stoooopidly missed the show and in any case, if we are pimping out that whole minimal spiel, then it's also clear that these are the type of clothes that need to be touched in person to get to grips with why they're so fantastic.  So yes, it goes without saying that all the fabrics, the cuts and the little details such as the rounded rectangular pockets placed just so as well as the abundance of NAVY were all supremely impressive.  All of that seems like wasted prose.  My little diversion though is that whilst I admire Philo's philosophy (more about that later when I review...eeek...the debut issue of The Gentlewoman), is that I can't possibly believe that any want of frivolity will disappear completely.  It seemed to me more apparent that rather than cleaning up your whole silhouette from head to toe, that this so-called 'minimalism' is more about high-quality, stunningly simple items that are easier to incorporate and slot into your existing wardrobe.  It's with this attitude that I go to Celine with enthusiasm over the possibility of chucking a leather wraparound tulip skirt over riveted leggings or a sheepskin coat with gold clasps over a tiered fringe dress for a texture clash.  The lace blouse with stand-away patch pockets in my head has already taken shape with neon underwear as a base.  This may be a case of wanting too much; to mix min and max in a blasphemous move.  Everybody may be joining the to to worship at the church of Philo but I'll hang around outside the gates, loitering around with my dirty inner spirit that clamours for ribbons, ruffles, prints, pleats and all that fuss.

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